Hanfu
Information about hanfu & tips for artists who want to draw traditional Chinese clothing
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Hanfu Information about hanfu & tips for artists who want to draw traditional Chinese clothing art, painting, drawing, China, history Hanfu Information and drawing tips TLDR version Please draw cross collars left-over-right like shown here! Getting this wrong is by far the most common mistake I see Do your research and find appropriate references! Learn the differences between 汉服 (hanfu), 古装 (guzhuang), ethnic minorities’ clothing and other types of clothing Table of contents Disclaimers 4 What is (and isn’t) hanfu 5 - 12 General information Layers 14 - 17 Period-specific styles 18 - 28 Shoes 29 - 30 Do’s and don’ts Collars 31 - 34 Mixing styles 35 Yuanlingpao 36 - 37 Hanfu, kimono, hanbok 38 - 41 Miscellaneous 42 Glossary 44 Sources 45 - 47 Updated on 2022/05/29 Disclaimers The information and advice in this presentation are mostly based on historical practice, but I also want to point out that hanfu is a living fashion that has been gaining a lot of popularity in China and modern hanfu is often very different from historical hanfu, but both are understood to be valid forms of hanfu by most people. If you’re looking to draw fictional characters in fantasy settings, some of the points made in this presentation might not apply and there is always room for creativity, but I still think it’s important to know where the clothing comes from, what it’s originally like and how you might choose to modify it. There are also many people who might not care about accuracy, and I agree that it doesn’t always matter, but I hope this will still be informative and helpful! What is (and isn’t) hanfu Hanfu (汉服) is defined as the traditional ethnic clothing of the Han Chinese people (the ethnic majority in China) Another commonly used term, huafu (华服), includes the clothing of all ethnic groups in China Of course other groups such as the Manchu people, the Mongolian people, the Hmong people, etc. all also have their own ethnic clothing and all deserve their own appreciation, but I will only focus on hanfu in this presentation Most Qing dynasty clothing is not counted as hanfu as it’s heavily influenced by Manchu clothing Qipao/cheongsam is also not hanfu as it’s derived from Qing/Manchu (and in some cases also Western) clothing What is (and isn’t) hanfu Some examples: ← Ming-style clothing (this is hanfu) → Qing-style clothing (this is not hanfu) (these are TV drama costumes) What is (and isn’t) hanfu Some examples: ← Song-style clothing (this is hanfu) → Mongolian deel (this is not hanfu) What is (and isn’t) hanfu Some examples: ← Ming-style clothing (this is hanfu) → Manchu clothing (this is not hanfu) What is (and isn’t) hanfu Some examples: ← Ming-style clothing (this is hanfu) → Qing-style tangzhuang (this is not hanfu) What is (and isn’t) hanfu Some examples: ← modernized hanfu (this is hanfu) → modern qipao/cheongsam (this is not hanfu) What is (and isn’t) hanfu Another important term to know is guzhuang (古装). This is essentially the term for Chinese fantasy clothing Guzhuang is often based on hanfu or Qing clothing, but it takes a lot of creative liberties and incorporates outside influences (for example modern fabrics) Guzhuang is most commonly seen in Chinese fantasy media (dramas, donghua, manhua, video games, etc.) Guzhuang is sometimes seen as tacky by some people. Everyone has their own taste and opinions, but it’s worth keeping in mind Examples on the next slide What is (and isn’t) hanfu Some examples of guzhuang (from TV dramas) Information about hanfu General information: Layers Hanfu usually consists of 3 basic layers: 内衣 (neiyi): inner clothing 中依 (zhongyi): middle clothing 外衣 (waiyi): outer clothing However, waiyi can consist of even more layers in itself (such as multiple tops, coats, etc.) General information: Layers 内衣 (neiyi): inner clothing Neiyi covers the private parts and usually the chest as well It usually isn’t visible in a complete ensemble (a notable exception is women’s waist-high ruqun where the top is sometimes visible) General information: Layers 中依 (zhongyi): middle clothing Zhongyi can come in different styles, but most often it consists of a cross-collared top and either trousers or a skirt It’s usually white and plain It doubles as sleepwear The collar is almost always visible under the waiyi General information: Layers 外衣 (waiyi): outer clothing The main garments The style of waiyi can vary greatly by time period General information: Period-specific styles A rough (and incomplete!) timeline of Chinese history for reference (periods that are of special interest for hanfu are highlighted) Ancient Imperial Modern Neolithic (8500 - 2070 BCE) Xia (2070 - 1600 BCE) Shang (1600 - 1046 BCE) Zhou (1046 - 256 BCE) Qin (221 - 207 BCE) Han (202 BCE - 220 CE) Three Kingdoms (220 - 280) Jin (266 - 420) Sui (581 - 618) Tang (618 - 907) Song (960 - 1279) Yuan (1271 - 1368) Ming (1368 - 1644) Qing (1636 - 1912) Republic of China (1912 - 1949) People's Republic of China (1949 - present) General information: Period-specific styles Han dynasty (202 BCE - 220 CE) Iconic for representing some of the oldest surviving records of hanfu (though hanfu dates back a lot further) Common styles of this period were ruqun (襦裙), a cross-collared top and skirt, and quju (曲裾), also known as curved-hem robe, a one-piece garment Pictures of historically accurate Han dynasty hanfu on the next slide General information: Period-specific styles Han dynasty General information: Period-specific styles Tang dynasty (618 - 907) Sometimes called the golden age of Chinese culture The mid to late Tang dynasty is now famous for its beauty ideal of voluptuous women Common styles were chest-high ruqun and yuanlingpao (圆领袍), known as round-collared robe Pictures of historically accurate Tang dynasty hanfu on the next slide General information: Period-specific styles Tang dynasty General information: Period-specific styles Song dynasty (960 - 1279) Most women’s clothing became more restrained and simple compared to the Tang dynasty This might have been the first time that earrings started to be worn by Han women (it was considered immoral before) Common styles were waist-high ruqun and yuanlingpao Pictures of historically accurate Song dynasty hanfu on the next slide General information: Period-specific styles Song dynasty General information: Period-specific styles Ming dynasty (1368 - 1644) Over the course of the Ming dynasty, a big shift occurred in hanfu: ruqun was largely replaced by aoqun and daopao This was also the first time that standing collars (竖领) were used Aoqun (袄裙) consists of long top that is worn untucked and a skirt that, in the later period, is often pleated Pictures of historically accurate Ming dynasty hanfu on the next slide General information: Period-specific styles Ming dynasty General information: Period-specific styles Summary I’ve heard the phrase “simple Han, luxurious Tang, delicate Song, elegant Ming” and I think that sums it up pretty well The other dynasties (like Jin and Sui) have interesting styles as well, but they haven’t received nearly as much attention as those four General information: Period-specific styles Some important takeaways No earrings (for Han women) before the Song dynasty No standing collars before the Ming dynasty Pibo (披帛), flowy silk shawls, are iconic for the Tang dynasty This probably goes without saying, but also no cut hair (i.e. no bangs, no shaving, etc.) until the Qing dynasty (exceptions: young children, Buddhist monks, non-Han people, criminals and social outcasts) General information: Shoes Hanfu shoes were historically made of fabric or leather They often turn upwards at the end which serves the purpose of holding up the hem of the robes so that the wearer won’t trip Traditional hanfu shoes never have heels. The soles are flat Shoes are often worn with loose-fitting socks like this → General information: Shoes Some types of shoes Fangxi (方舄), Song to Ming-style men's shoes Xue (靴), boots mostly worn for riding horses, worn since at least the Han dynasty Gongxie (弓鞋), Song to Ming-style casual shoes Do’s and don’ts: Collars Do… always draw cross collars left-over-right Don’t… draw them right-over-left Do’s and don’ts: Collars Left-over-right goes for all cross collars (including zhongyi) in all styles of hanfu! The reason is that the reverse (right-over-left) is usually how deceased people are dressed (and there are also many practical reasons) The name of this rule is 交领右衽 (jiaoling youren) Some other cultures (like a lot of nomadic groups in the north) have used right-over-left as their norm Do’s and don’ts: Collars Do… choose Ming-style collars if you want to draw standing collars in hanfu Don’t… choose Qing-style or modern shirt collars if you’re trying to draw hanfu Pictures on the next slide Do’s and don’ts: Collars Hanfu collars (Ming-style) Not hanfu collars Do’s and don’ts: Mixing styles Do… stick to one style or only combine different styles when it’s appropriate e.g.: a fictional character who is immortal could wear a combination of the different styles they’ve worn throughout their lifetime Don’t… mix styles randomly when it isn’t appropriate (or, if you choose to do it intentionally, you should at least know what you’re doing) e.g.: a character living in very ancient times should not be wearing aoqun Do’s and don’ts: Yuanlingpao Do… draw the flap and the button on yuanlingpao Don’t… forget it! If there was no flap and button, it’d be impossible (or very difficult) to put on and take off yuanlingpao Pictures on the next slide Do’s and don’ts: Yuanlingpao Can also be worn unbuttoned like this This “slit” is a side vent. It’s not always visible This is the flap that is buttoned at the top Do’s and don’ts: Hanfu, kimono, hanbok Do… learn the differences between Chinese hanfu, Japanese kimono and Korean hanbok Don’t… get them mixed up or blend their different elements together when it isn’t appropriate Here are two posts you can read that explain a few of
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